In September 2011 we visited a match of the PUMAS, one of the most popular teams of Mexico, and at that time reigning champions of Mexico (though they were just going through a rather bad spell). They typically play their matches at noon on Sundays, which means that many people arrive with their hair still wet of showering.

We got to the the stadium easily by Metrobus. Finding the right stop wasn’t hard as it just meant following the crowds in PUMAS gear get off and walk to the stadium.

After having arrived at the stadium the taquillas (ticket booths) were easily located, though the scene was slightly confusing as each window was assigned to a particular part of the stadium and there wasn’t any map with the layout of the stadium around. However people were friendly enough to help us out identifying the different parts. It took us about 15 minutes queuing before we arrived at the front of the line and a further 10 minutes going through security checks and locating our seats. So better not arrive at the last minute.

It’s not allowed to carry any belts inside the stadium. Even though there is special service to guard your belt during the match – which is in fact reliable – you may feel uncomfortable at first giving off your belt (which happened to me at other matches). There are loads of salesmen around selling PUMAS jerseys and food and drinks.

Our tickets were for the long end of the stadium, technically the main stand, though there is hardly any difference between the stands. No fixed seat numbers, so free seating on concrete benches. Pumas played Toluca, no rival, so it was easy to find a place (and get tickets).

I’d say the stadium was about a third full, with the fans primarily located on both long ends and hardly any behind the goals. Also the fanatic fans seemed to have their area at the main stand, quite unusual, though the atmosphere got at no point aggressive and the crowd seemed to be more upper class than at other Mexican clubs. The crowd did seem to be very homogeneous, with practically all of them wearing PUMAS jerseys and chanting along with the more common chants.

The match started with the university hymn with everyone singing along with their fist up in the air. One particular chant seemed to be the preference of most of the people. Also there was the typical Latin American salsa type of band playing along. A nice atmosphere, but nothing too exciting. Maybe the hour?

As in all Latin American stadiums vendors walk round the stadium selling drinks and snacks, including beer. One word of advice: the stadium doesn’t have a roof, so when the sky is clear, which is not uncommon in Mexico City, you’re sitting full in the blistering sun and without sunscreen you’re bound to get sunburnt. Needless to say that when it’s raining you’re bound to get wet (not so common though). So take precautions or arrive very early to claim one of the few covered seats.

After the match we got quickly out of the stadium without problems to take the metrobus back to central Mexico City.